Beer Bottling Monoblock: 2010

Friday, December 10, 2010

Updated Manual

This is a copy of the current manual - for the Beer Bottling Monobloc.

I am currently going through the manual - to make it easier to read and fill in some unanswered questions. Bear with me this is a work in progress. . .

Saturday, September 25, 2010

Replacement Parts - work in progress.

We will be stocking many parts for these machines.

This is list of common replacement parts and their source:

Cabinet Fan: Grainger # 2RTE1

Fill Valve Actuator Piston: Festo DPZ-16-40P-A #32688

Solenoid Valve: Grainger 4EKW7

Beer bowl float assembly This was the model number - M5002-10386
That we ordered from www.madisonco.com - 1-800-466-5383

Stop the Crowns!

Ever want to stop the crown while working on the machine?

Use a magnet on a stick in the crown track.

Crowner Head

The crowner head would frequently come loose - probably because of the vibrators on the crown track.

The bolts holding the bottom plate on only had a couple of threads of contact - these

bolts were replaced with longer bolts and Locktite was applied to all of the threads.

Crown Sensor:

The sensor for the crowns needed to be replaced because the original could not 'see' black crowns.

New part is a Omron E3F2-R4C4F.

Sensor on the new bottling lines are

Autonics

PR18-5DN

http://www.autonics.com/upload/data/8-J-14-19_PR_en_100209.pdf

Closing 16 valve - by hand!

These beer valve are very loose by design. If you apply your counter pressure to the bowl before filling - and rotate the bowl - each valve will get closed and stay closed as the pressure builds.
Once you have pressure in the bowl and all the valves are closed - you can then add the beer.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1HIVEHJ_jTQ

A suggestion from ProBrewer:

I have experience with many fillers but not that particular one. It sounds like you have too much pressure and you are forcing open the valves on the filler. The valves should always remain sealed. If I could see a better picture of your filler and your tank I may be able to help you more. Is there pressurized lift cylinders that are used to lift the bottle up to the seals? If so what is the pressure of that and what is the pressure on your beer tank? You don’t want more pressure on your beer tank than you have on your lift cylinders.

__________________
Cliff Panneton

CIP for BBM

To set the machine up for CIP we added a tee in front of the beer solenoid to permit the bowl to be completly filled.

Ball valves were added close of the CO2 and CO2 return lines.

Currently one of the water injector has been replaced with a ball valve to speed up sanitizing the line.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cEI-XmMMjWE

Another option is to add a switch in the control panel that will manually open the beer in valve. 24V to o1.0

Manual reversing

When a bottle is jammed in the machine - we manually rotate the drive belt in reverse to clear the jam.

If taken to far back the buttons can jam on the back edge of the actuator and snap off the plastic button.

Snapped button:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MjeuN2hrEwA

Also - if the machine need to be reversed - the red handle on the front that causes the beer lines to be purged should be disengaged as it can the valve arm in the bowl to be bent! See photo.

Poor bottle fill:

Notice the bottles coming into the bottling line - beer is coming into the bottle too soon.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WfQ6MUMdPw0
Changes:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FGXvTa-EyIs
Good Fill:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GAC35e_OrWE

This machine is designed to run at 6000b/h.

This setup was running at 2400b/h - at this speed the first co2 injection lasted too long. 'Umbrellas' were moved up the fill tube to minimize foaming.